We all have those places in mind. The ones we see in movies or read about in books, and only think that they are possible in a fantasy land created by our wild imagination. That’s what I thought about the warmth of a town between the Atlas mountains, and the people dressed in long brown weary coats, and donkeys carrying colorful bags and carpets around narrow streets where no cars are allowed. Discovering the old Madrasas and Universities, the Mosques and the labyrinth of markets and shops in the Old Medina of Fez should be on everyone’s bucket list.
Morocco holds a very special place in my heart.
Four summers ago, when I was 19, I went on a volunteering internship of 6 weeks to Casablanca, where I taught English classes to a group of sweet students. Needless to say, that during those 2 months, I traveled all around the country, and fell absolutely and utterly in love with the culture of hospitality, the kindness of the people, the uniqueness of the architecture and the complex art of the mosaics on the gates, doors, fountains and everything else in between. Trust me, when you’ll go to Morocco you’ll know what I mean by “I took 500 photos only of doors today.” For me, this country is pure magic. It’s a fairy tale land of stories and people, taste, and colors, sounds and movement. The land where everything is possible. Keep an open mind and be ready to immerse yourself in a complete and splendid cultural shock.
So let’s dive in! Fez is the second-largest city in Morocco, after Casablanca, with a population of 1.4 million people. The Old Medina of Fez, called Fes el Bali (Old Fez) is the oldest walled part of the city. It was founded as the capital of the Idrisid dynasty between 789 and 808 AD. And besides being famous for having the oldest university in the world, the University of Al-Karaouine, Fes el Bali (the old medina- market of Fez), with a total population of 156,000, is also believed to be the biggest car-free urban area in the world.
During my time in Morocco 4 years ago, everyone kept talking about Fez, the oldest and most traditional city in the country, a place where time stops. Now I know why! Because once you enter the Old Medina, you will get lost through the millions of streets, and totally taken back in time, when the merchants sold their ropes and lamps, candles and spices, and all kinds of olives, clementines, and nuts. Expect to be mesmerized by the ocean of sounds, smells, and feelings. Just wander around and let the culture come to you! Let’s see what you can visit and experience in the bustling Old Medina, a World Heritage Site according to UNESCO!
Find a beautiful Airbnb with a terrace
Trust me, it will be worth it. We found a cozy room on the last floor of this house, with breakfast included and a super nice host who always made sure we had mint tea and plenty of atmospheric Moroccan music. He was so overly nice that when I asked him the name of the band/songs he ran out and bought me a CD with the music… That’s what I call hospitality. But the best part about this Airbnb was the rooftop, right across from a mosque with emerald green tiles, from where we could see a 360 degrees view over the Old Medina of Fez. The name of the guesthouse is Dar Sienna! Totally Recommend! And if you don’t have an Airbnb account you can Sign in using my code, and you’ll get 34€ off your first reservation!
I promise you, there’s nothing more magical than watching the sunset over some mint tea wrapped in blankets and surrounded by colorful pillows. Let the sounds and views take over and feel like you’re about to take off on Aladdin’s magic carpet.
Wander through the Labyrinth of the Medina of Fez
Don’t expect that you’ll find your way easily through the complicated streets. Even if you will try to download an offline google map, or have internet connection, Google Maps is not 100% accurate. Keep in mind that while trying to navigate somewhere, it might be better to just go with the flow and keep an eye out for the whiteboards with the name and history of the famous sites. When they think that you are looking for something, some locals will offer to show you around, but be careful, because they will request a “decent” tip (at the end of the tour), so if you accept help, be prepared to pay a good amount. And they will be persistent. We got lost a couple of times and accepted the help of a teenager, so we tipped him accordingly.
You might feel tricked but it’s a little price to pay for all the free beauty that the Medina has to offer. So keep your expectations low, be careful who you accept as an unconventional guide, and go wandering around without a goal along the intricate streets and markets.
Have a mint tea next to the Bab Bou Jeloud
(The Blue Gate of Fez)
On the entrance of the Medina there’s a long series of restaurants and cafes where you can simply sit down and delight yourself with a cup of traditional mind tea. Peacefully become a spectator of the commotion and clamor, and take in the movement of the locals, from the women walking their kids around the market, to the iron clinks of the blacksmiths, and the bakers delivering their sweet delicacies.
Al Attarine Madrasa
Upon entering the courtyard of this small madrasa you will see the dazzling example of intricate Islamic architecture and mosaics. According to atlasobscura, the sultans of the Marinid Dynasty, which ruled Morocco from the 13th to the 15th century, were known as passionate patrons of madrasas- centers of religious learning that helped them promote Sunni teachings during their various reigns. So enter this unusual “school” and explore all levels, take your time to analyze the sections of Arabic calligraphy, and intricate mosaic tiles forming colorful geometric patterns.
“The al-Attarine Madrasa, whose name means “the madrasa of the perfumers,” takes its name from its location at the entrance to a historic spice and perfume market in Fez. But unlike the busy souk that it borders, the al-Attarine Madrasa is a place of unusual calm.”
Bou Inania Madrasa
“The name Bou Inania (Bū ‘Ināniya) comes from the first part of the sultan’s name Abou Inan, its founder in AD 1351. The madrasa functioned both as an educational institute and as a congregational mosque.”
This elegant Madrasa is widely acknowledged as an excellent example of Marinid architecture, the dynasty we talked about earlier. What is interesting about Bou Inania, is that it is the only Madrasa with a minaret, which you might have seen through the Blue Gate entering the medina. And it is absolutely gorgeous in details! It has been restored with elaborate mosaic tilework, beautiful wooden lattice screens, and massive brass doors. Although all Madrasas usually have prayer rooms or a hall, this one hosts a complete mosque, surrounded by classrooms.
El Glaoui Palace
A friendly tourist in the exchange shop recommended us this little Palace, so we thought to give it a try. And I’m happy we did. This old villa, although in disrepair, has a hypnotizing charm to it. As a big fan of Arabic art: mosaics, wood-paintings and carving so I absolutely loved having the chance to walk around freely and staring at the stunning art all around. Today, it’s being taken care of by a local artist who’s trying to keep it up with a small door fee, and the sale of his art.
Watch the Sunset at Borj Nord
The highlight of our trip was definitely watching the sunset over the city. Once we got to the view-point and got a glimpse of everything, it felt like Morocco has opened its arms to give us a warm hug. The amber light over the ancient buildings, Madrasas and Mosques, the Old Medina, and the rest of the city of Fez, the sound of the calling to prayer, people having picnics and laughing with their families, and the carefree atmosphere, made that sunset one of the best in my life. This is a MUST DO in Fez!
Try the incredible Falafel at Café Clock
We loved that place. The food was spectacular, the waiters were super nice and eager to give you lots of advice on what to visit and where to go. They have events and traditional music, so get ready to enjoy some Moroccan tunes and dance! The Ruined Garden is also good for dinner, make sure to give it a try!
Our short trip to Fez was filled with beautiful memories and plenty of walks, mosaics and ornamental doors (Morocco never disappoints)! My personal advice: don’t rush, don’t be “Check-list” tourist, that has to see and do EVERYTHING. Take your time, plan to do 2 or max. 3 things in one day, and spend the time in between just being present in the atmosphere and become a part of the never stopping commotion.
Enjoy every second! Happy travels, and let me know in the comments how your trip was!
-Andreea
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